Fairey Swordsman 33

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Chris,

I think you have reached the hardest part of the Swordsman build which are the spray rails as the triangular section changes shape at the bow, I like to use obechi for them.

Good luck Ray

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

I cheat these days and use square-section bass, then I sand them to a D section when the glue has dried. It works fine on the water. Not strictly scale, I know, but in that respect my models have flat decks anyway!

Just today finished the 1/16 scale Swordsman kit drawings, CNC parts CAD files, photos, instructions etc. No idea when it will be out there – that's in the lap of Ian Hull at SLEC. Here's the cover of the Manuals –

Dave M

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Very nice Dave. I did start drawing the top view but then left it to concentrate on the hull drawings so that I could start building.

Ray – I'm probably going to leave the hull now and continue with the deck and superstructure. I'm a glutten for punishment so am going to plank the deck, rear cabin roof and cockpit floor which is going to slow progress down! This is going to make it a longer term project so I shall return to the other two boats so that I can at least get something finished!

Chris

 

Edited By Chris Fellows on 08/02/2019 00:09:30

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi Chris

I have seen a Spearfish come up on eBay about four times, but totally over priced at 150 pounds !!!

Harry

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Been doing a bit on the Swordsman as well. Cut out the temporary brace to Bulkhead 2 and fitted some formers to the bow area to form the curve of the deck. Then skinned the deck in 0.8mm birch ply. As this is the base for the planking I didn't have to worry about having joints (unlike with the Huntsman 28) so did it in four pieces – much easier!

Next is to do some research again on the planking, making notes this time and drawing it out and doing some more drawing for the superstructure.

There's a lot of planks!

Chris

Edited By Chris Fellows on 13/03/2019 18:17:20

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Blimey, it's been 7 months since I posted on this one! A little bit of progress has been made in that the sub-deck was completed.

Today I did some more sanding to the bow area (took a few hours on and off!) to introduce the flare. Needs a bit of filling and more sanding and then I can start the resin and cloth.

Chris

 

Edited By Chris Fellows on 18/10/2019 18:09:23

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

This was the first build that I started and stalled because I wanted to plank the deck and until that was done I couldn't start the superstructure. To put off the day of reckoning I started other builds but they got to the same stage as well!

I then decided to get the deck planking laser etched and started pursuing this but whilst doing so a chap on Mahem started a Huntsman 31 build and used a method for planking off the hull. It looks the biz and a method that appealed to me and sparked my enthusiasm to get on with my builds again. Joe's build is called Hunters Moon and has resulted in a lovely model.

After my last posting the lightweight cloth and Eze-Kote resin was applied and then set aside whilst household stuff and other builds were undertaken.

The sub-deck then required some filling with P38 where there were low spots at the joints and where the 0.8mm ply had "sagged" slightly between the supports for the camber on the bow. This was because I ran them fore and aft unlike on a later build where they are side to side and the ply follows a nice curve and is better supported.

Next day was a rare dry and sunny one (well it was when I started) so I carried out the messy job of sanding the P38 down outside. Just finished when the rain started!

The deck was then ready to start the planking process which first required a bow detail (edging and kingplank) and side and transom edgings to be fitted inside which the planking would fit.

That for the Huntsman was carried out after the Swordsman, though overlapped, and has already been posted, but for completeness the process will be included here.

The edgings etc. are produced from 1.5 x 100mm mahogany sheet. The bow detail as I'm calling it was started by screwing 2 pieces of the sheet to the deck (unlike with the Huntsman there aren't big holes in the breast hook), the bow was then drawn around and the pieces removed and cut over-size. They were again screwed to the deck and the edges sanded to the deck edge.

A drawing had been produced to see what the bow looked like and for transferring to the mahogany but this wasn't used in the end.

The sheets were then removed again and the king plank and edges were marked out – edges done by marking a 5mm width at intervals and joining the dots with a big plastic curved rule. Then cut out carefully on the scroll saw and carefully sanded. Scarf joints were then cut and sanded and the two parts were then glued in place with Slo Zap.

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

The deck edgings were then produced by cutting out a card template as shown in the last photo, transferred to some more sheet and cut out over-size. The pieces were then clamped in place and as before sanded back to the deck edge, removed and again a 5mm (one plank width at 1:12) width marked down the sides, dots joined up and then cut out on the scroll saw, glad when I reached the end! Sanded and glued in place.

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

The procedure for the edging at the transom followed that of the bow but rather than screw into balsa I used double sided tape. Before gluing, the ends were cut and sanded to ensure a snug fit between the side pieces.

All ready for planking now.

Chris

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Well before the actual planking I've had to produce a sub-base for each side out of 0.8mm birch ply. The planking is glued to this sub-base off the model and therefore needs to fit as accurately as you can make make it within the mahogany edging.

I made use of the bow detail drawing as part of the paper template. This was then drawn around, slightly oversize, onto the ply and cut out with a Stanley knife. It was then gradually sanded back with a PermaGrit block to ensure a good fit. I'd made life easier for myself by leaving off the coaming around the inside of the hull so could simply sand back to the inside rather than have to do more fitting. The photo shows one side finished and the other about to be sanded to the inside edges.

I'm going to try Titebond III for the planking and whilst waiting for it to be delivered will get on with the sub-bases for the other two hulls.

Chris

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Ended up with duplicate posts for some reason!

Edited By Chris Fellows on 21/10/2020 18:10:56

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

They seem different to me.

Colin

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

They were identical posts timed a second apart, even included the photo. I then changed the duplicate.

Chris

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

What a very clean and tidy workshop, I bet you even have a shiny kettle and fresh milk.

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Paul

That part is clean and tidy! It's actually the small bedroom so certainly have access to a shiny kettle and fresh milk!

It's pretty rammed in there at the moment as still got boxes and other stuff to sort out but No. 2 son has been with us since February due to Covid and I want to move some of the books etc. into his room.

Chris

Edited By Chris Fellows on 26/10/2020 14:32:17

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

As per that for the Huntsman 31 the planking has been completed for the bow and sides of the deck. With the experience gained and lessons learnt it was carried out more quickly, more easily and with less stress! With it being another job I didn't fancy crossed off the list it will be something that I can tackle with more confidence with regard to future builds.

Just needs sanding of the edges and top to be completed and it is ready for gluing down. I shall add the rubbing strips before that and make a stand.

Chris

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Can't really do much more on the builds until the stands are made and so I set to. I went out and bought a sheet of 9mm MDF (these are only build stands) earlier in the week in case the new lockdown stopped me getting some locally.

I then knocked up a quick drawing using using the bulkhead templates for each end of the stand.

I'd be waiting for dry weather to avoid cutting in the house and so got my Workmate from the shed and jig saw from the garage and cut out the ends and drilled the hole for the prop shaft for the 3 stands and sanded the edges with the good old PermaGrit block.

I didn't have enough dowel for all the stands but then remembered that I'd got an old curtain pole in the garage – I knew it would come in useful one day! I had to retrieve my big DeWalt mitre saw from under the worktop in my workroom/bedroom and carry it downstairs and outside, blimey it's heavy, to cut the dowel to length. I'd tried with a tenon saw and it wasn't bad but you just can't beat the accuracy and squareness of a mitre saw.

Then, being watched by a row of pigeons on the roof, hoping for some seed, I drilled the ends of the dowel and through the end pieces for the fixing screws. Then back to the warmth of the house for assembly. After that I gave the top edges of the stands two coats of Eze-Kote to seal and then applied adhesive backed foam rubber.

Chris

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

First job to do with the benefit of the stand was to fit the mahogany rubbing strips. They took some steaming with the kettle, especially to the bow and the transom, the latter having a quite pronounced compound curve.

I had to bring out the big guns for holding the rubbing strip in place at the bow! First time I've used them I think but glad I bought them.

I've used slow cure CA in the past but have had problems with the strips moving slightly whilst being held in place and not being level with the top of the deck. And you don't really want to sand the top down level unless it's a very small amount because with it being a small timber section it looks uneven, well it is! I was so unhappy on a previous build that I took the rubbing strips off, which was not easy, and replaced them.

Method I used here was to clamp in place dry and then use thin CA which by capillary action wicks into the joint. It looks a mess, as you can see at the bow, but it doesn't soak very far into the surface of the mahogany and sands off just fine. For good measure I did run some slow cure CA along the joint on the underside.

Chris

Edited By Chris Fellows on 10/11/2020 18:15:56

[Tim RoweParticipant @timrowe83142]

More fine work there Chris.

Tim R

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Thanks Tim.

Before gluing the planking in place (even though I'm itching to do so!) I've given it 2 coats of varnish and the edgings 1 coat to give it protection from glue marks. The planking being only 0.5mm, well less now after a couple of sandings, doesn't have enough meat for more if glue gets on it.

I did buy some Ronseal Interior Matt varnish for the planking – I know it says Interior but also that it resists household chemicals so I reasoned that water wouldn't be a problem! But having read that gloss varnish can be made more matt by brushing on and then wiping off I decided to use my favourite International Paints Schooner tung oil which definitely resists water. It has a nice honey colour to it when used on light timber. Only downside it does take awhile to dry completely and whilst dry overnight I shall leave for a couple of days before gluing as I need to hold/clamp it down to the sub-deck.

I've got the rubbing strips to fit to the other 2 hulls anyway.

Chris

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Well, the day of reckoning came for gluing the planking down, which as I said previously I was itching to do but on the other hand wasn't looking forward to! Reason being that the 0.5mm and 0.8mm ply laminate was quite stiff after gluing together and I wasn't able to clamp the bow area. Even along the sides it was difficult to get the clamps near the edge. In addition I'd used some P38 to fill hollows in the bow area which I doubt A/resin will stick very well to.

So I used contact adhesive to the bow area which I held in place by hand. Once this had gripped I lifted the side piece carefully and applied A/resin all the way to the transom. Started to panic a bit as I was clamping in place as you don't have too long before the glue starts going off and have to ensure that the pieces are in the correct position as you clamp. Once this was done I noticed that the edges were lifting in places as the clamps couldn't quite reach so I used some thin CA to hold them down.

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

I'd decided early on that I was going to do the transom area separately and that was what I did today. First job was to fit a piece of 0.8mm ply as used for the previous planking as a sub-base to match the construction and give the correct overall thickness. In fact it was done in two pieces as I'm really scraping the barrel now with the offcuts. This was glued down with A/resin. No CA today, hooray!

Once that was dry I carried out the planking. To be honest this is the only part of the whole planking process that I've really enjoyed though I have had satisfaction as various stages have been completed like the mahogany edging. It's been a bit of a slog and quite a lot of work, even though it might not look it, not helped by doing three at once!

But it's a means to an end and I guess that most of us have aspects of builds that we don't enjoy that much but have to be done?

I shall do the transom area to the Huntsman 31 tomorrow, which should be a breeze with her petite derriere compared with the lardy ar*e of the Swordsman!

Chris

[geconParticipant @gecon]

Looking really beautifull Chris, very impressive indeed.

I think the oil and varnish combination you are using is the equivalant to the Norwegian treatments I applied to the Fisher decks….long time soaking in and drying but is repells water 100%.

George

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Thanks George for your kind comments, worth the effort in the end.

My plan to varnish the planking and edgings before gluing the planking down in case glue got on the surface backfired a bit. Good idea on the planking as so thin but not really necessary on the mahogany and I had to sand it off along each side to glue the toe rails on! And I've done all three hulls! To be fair I hadn't decided whether I was going to fit them or not at the time. Another lesson learnt.

Chris

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Chris,

Super job as always times 3 !!

Have you thought of an upstand round the deck opening to stop the wet stuff getting in ?? Of course you have

Regards Ray

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