First deviation from the plan, strengthening to the hull skin, also inside the transom box and further ply added under the motors.

What's worse than a hole in your boat…eight holes! This was the most difficult part, with no plan, I had to guess the angle of the prop through the hull.
My plan all along was to keep to the look and feel of the original full size boat as much as possible, so by measuring angles from photos on my tv and a bit of guesstimation and cardboard templates, I arrived at approx 20deg. I didn't get it exactly right, hence the larger prop holes. and extra wood to cover the inside! I should have made up a jig from scrap wood to keep everything in line as the glue set. One of the props is very slightly out of line, I call it the boomerang effect, as it will always come back to me! We live and learn.

Two uj's per prop allows the motors to sit fairly flat on the hull. Raw water cooled motor mounts are glued directly onto dense core foam for sound and vibration deadening.
True to life anti-cavitation plates are though-bolted at both ends and glued/pinned to the hull.

Rudder stocks are fitted through angle-cut plastic tubes either side of the hull skin and the entry was enlarged to the transom box for access to rudders and exhaust cooling pipes.

Propshafts have 'p' brackets, as per the full size and the rudders are about the same shape as the actual items. Water intakes either side of the hull. Notice the hull chines cut out around the propeller…too close for comfort!

The motors (after much help from the forum) are Surpass Hobby 4250, 800kv outrunners and the speed controllers are fairly hefty 90a Flycolor with raw water cooling.
An electronic switch operated water cooling pump allows for realistic water through the exhausts on demand as well as being forced by the inlets when underway.
More to follow…