Hi All

My intention at some point was to build my own Huntress, but not just yet as I own one of DM's lovely creations and thoughts were it being on a Captain's Boat version, but other builds were going to come first.

Whilst my goal is to build all of the classic Faireys; Huntsman 31, Swordsman 33 etc. all at 1:12 scale, I do like to have a go at the more unusual, hence the River Cruiser and the Fisherman 27 – the latter being planned for a winter start.

Anyway a discussion on Alan Bell's Huntsman 28 thread on stern-drives had me looking at my Fairey Marine book and I came across a preliminary design by Alan Burnard, Faireys' designer, for a longer cabin Huntress (still using the 23 foot hull) with twin stern-drives. Some Huntresses were fitted with stern-drives for particular customers, particularly where hulls were supplied for completion by other yards, but most were traditional prop shaft.

Along with the longer cabin there were longer and deeper side windows which look more modern and I reckon the overall look is very nice. It was penned (or should I say pencilled) in the early 1960s, so alongside other designs, and it was a pity that it never went into production. I guess that being the early days of stern-drives was part of the reason.

Upshot is that I decided I had to build one. First thing to look at was the availability of stern/Z-Drives to suit a small boat at 1:12. Not much out there really, well I found one at Bauer-Modelles in Germany which is slightly bulkier than ideal but it fits the bill and has a 36mm prop. It's made from plastic but it will have to do. The alloy ones are too big but are works of art with prices to match!

So with a suitable drive found and winging its way here the build is a goer. I've bought the motor as well, my usual choice of Overlander, whilst still in stock.

I need to wait until the drive arrives, but this particular one has quite a large piece where it fixes to the transom and initial thoughts are to recess it into the transom, we shall see.

Forgot to mention, due to the relatively small size of the model and the added complication and weight particularly of drives and motors etc. I've decided on one rather than two. It was only a preliminary design afterall!

When the drive arrives I can make the necessary tweaks to the Huntress drawings and start on the hull build. Well, after sorting out my work room again!

Chris

Yes Alan, I've got boats scattered around the house at the moment, post decorating, only a matter of time before you know who says something! I've bought a few loft boards to put down so at least some of the stuff out of the work room (not model related) can go up there.

I'm sure you will Tim, given your skills. Funny you should mention Atalanta! I've already got some drawings!

Chris

Hi Colin

The pivot will be in that box shaped part where the mounting bolts are. You can see a hole on the bottom where I assume the pivot pin locates. Drive, plus props, grease and and postage came to over a hundred quid. Then there's the motor, another reason for only one! No choice though really, apart from not doing it! The cheapest alloy ones I found were over three hundred quid and too big anyway.

Having said that I use the Raboesch maintenance free prop shafts usually and they are pretty expensive so the overall cost won't be that much different. At least I've got most of the other materials and tools already now.

Those cross-head mounting bolts with have to go though and be replaced with some allen head ones.

Chris

Edited By Chris Fellows on 12/07/2020 21:30:29

Thanks Colin

It does use a flexi-drive but only a short straight one. The drive is transmitted to the prop via steel bevel gears and SS bearings are used – as per your first link. The flexi-shaft is there to accommodate differing tilt angles and as you say in reverse if too much throttle is used as the unit is designed to tilt up if running over an obstacle.

Chris

Hi Harry

It is designed to go in forwards and reverse but warns of using too much throttle in reverse as the drive can kick up as when going over obstacles which puts strain on the flexi-shaft. So no tearing towards the jetty and slamming into reverse!

Chris

Just had a box delivered.

The instructions are minimal (so going to ask for more information) but they do say to strip down and regrease if not going to be used for sometime but I will do it more frequently than that. The boat is going to be built to be used but not that often, having other boats, and certainly not thrashed or abused, well not intentionally anyway! I have the Club 500 for that!

The flexi-drives I've heard about having problems are longer ones used in race boats. The flexi-drive in this unit is only short and you can only see the part that goes into the coupling on the motor shaft. Replacements and other parts are available.

Now that I've got it I can think some more about how to mount it and the construction of the transom area and may well do a mock up.

Chris

After getting the stern-drive I spent some time measuring it up and drawing it so that I could work out how the hull needs to be constructed to install it.

Parts were then cut out on the scroll saw. For some reason, now that our bedroom has been decorated and carpeted Helen wasn't keen on me sanding the parts on my workmate in there so I did it outside which was very pleasant on the decking in the sunshine. Just need to cut out the slots etc. for assembly.

Things have been getting in the way of modelling again but that's life and so progress has been slow – no change there then!

The frames have been glued in place and I have just started fitting the stringers. I cut out a piece of MDF as a flat and manoeuverable baseboard to clamp to whilst fitting the frames and even with those fitted the deck springs up slightly if I remove the clamps – the ply I used for the deck was a bit warped as is usually the case and picked the best sheet I could. Once the stringers are all fitted it should stay flat but failing that the ply skins! We aren't talking much spring from flat but we have standards!

Chris